It Tastes Like Burning...

The snow is finally falling in Michigan's U.P., and Elm Creek here in the Twin Cities is getting perilously close to opening its man-made loop. All the pre-season hard work is about to be put to good use. That is, assuming you didn't over-do it. I have a bad tendency to not rest as much as I should. And, since I train for multiple sports, I can get pretty sore.

What many people don't know is that I am also a certified massage therapist, and, though I don't get as much bodywork done as I should, I can also help myself. So, if you are facing the slings and arrows of ouchie muscles, here are a few of my favorite (cheep and/or homemade) self-help tools:

THE FOAM ROLLER: Every athlete should have one of these. Mine is simply made from a cut-up pool noodle. It may not be as hard as the ones you can buy, like from Trigger Point Performance Therapy; I also didn't spend $20-$75 on it.  Sit on it. Lie on your side and roll it over arms and legs. Put it against your occiput (that area between neck & head). It feels soooooo good.

THE TENNIS (or whatever) BALL: OK, the tennis ball is a good size, and you can roll your shoulders all over the wall with it; it is also relatively squishy, so is good if you are a "pressure wimp." A softball or baseball also works, and it harder--something you can sit on to get to glute (butt) muscles. Hamstrings can be hard to get with either a foam roller or tennis ball--so, you can try a small soccer ball or something similar, too.

THE TIGER TAIL: I typically use a Tiger Tail more for pre-workout stuff. It is this thing:

It is basically a mini-foam roller--a glorified rolling pin--which, by the way, you can use, instead. No, I am not joking.Go get one from the Goodwill, if you want, since it will go all over sweaty skin. You can glue some light foam batting over it, if desired. The Stick is another tool. I don't like the mini-rollers on it; they are too likely to get caught up in a person's leg or arm hair, if they have any.

 

MARBLES: I don't have too much of a problem with getting sore feet. However, if you do, buy a big ol' bag of marbles, and get a plastic shoe box (or something a bit larger). Put the marbles in the box and roll your feet over them. You can also use a golf ball for more trigger-point specific work.

 



AROMATHERAPY & CREAMS: We all know about Icy-Hot or Aspercreme. However, sometimes those stink. You can buy blended aromatherapy oils specifically for sore muscles and add them to a carrier oil (like coconut or jojoba) or low-to-no-scent lotion you already have (about 5-10 drops per 1 oz. of carrier). You can also add the oils to a bath. There is Tiger Balm (stinky), Biofreeze (not so stinky), Prossage Heat (more stinky), Bon Vital Sport Cooling Gel (never tried it), and my favorite that comes with both cold & hot versions, Lotus Touch (all-natural, not tested on animals, and not too stinky either way). You can also use just plain Arnica gel, which is unscented.

Of course, I have to plug myself at this point: if you live in the Minneapolis Metro area, I work PT on my own, and I am pretty much a hyper-specific sports & therapeutic therapist. The "feel good fluff and buff" (traditional Swedish massage) is all well and good, and I do that, too. I also like to specifically help people get out of pain; I can easily spend an hour on a couple body parts that are in need of rehab--so I always need to know if a person wants all over body work with emphasis on a few spots, or a truly therapeutic/rehabilitative session. This is legitimate health-care, people. I don't do "Asian" massage with "that" type of ending.

And the phrase is Massage Therapist, folks. A Masseuse is not only an antiquated term, it now has, generally, that awful sexual connotation with it. People looking for that type of body work should be seeking out their local Red-Light district.

Dryland for Wet-ish Days

Late October into November can, in a word, suck. We have had an average of 3-4 days of wet, punctuated with 3-4 days of dry(ish) weather for going on three weeks. There is no snow for skiing, but you can't always get out on rollerskis (at least, I don't, for safety reasons). If you like misery (which I don't), I suppose you can bike.

So, when the roads & trails are dry, then I hit the bike. When it is truly wet, there is the trainer and the slide board, the pool and the weights. But I absolutely HATE those in between days--you know the ones I mean: where it spritzes on and off, never getting fully soaking wet, but never truly drying off, either. The thought of another indoor workout just makes me want to gag. Really: a person can only train inside for so long. Guess it's time for "dry" land--not my favorite thing to do, but fresh air is better than stale, musty, sweaty-gym smell. If you're not into it, I understand--neither am I, really. But, I coach this stuff, so I should know it & do it. And, even though many exercises seem more oriented to classic technique, we skaters can still benefit.

Pole Hike: This is always an easy one. Grab an old pair of poles, some shoes you don't mind getting schmutzy, and off you go. You can avoid muddy trails and stick to the grassy and/or gravelly ones, and not get too dirty. Then you can add some...

Bounding: To get that power, don't just walk, bounce! (Well, bound, really...). This video is pretty decent (but since my computer's sound is dead, don't trust me re: vocals...).

Plyometrics (& Skills Drills): On the same topic of bouncing power, there are plyometrics--you know, that jump all over hell thing to work on balance and strength. But, you also need to do it skillfully. I like the video I added below because it shows you the good ol' favorites: the "falling" drills for both classic and skate, and variations on the uphill bounding for classic & skate. There are also some one-legged plyos/skills drills.

The Exer-Genie: OK, so this one is a little weird. I came across it in my search for other dry land videos. If you know what a SkiErg is, you will see this is its "little cousin." If you don't know what a SkiErg is, check this out. Anyway, the Exer-Genie is this adjustable thing to help with poling workouts. If you are big into classic, and don't have the space or inclination for a SkiErg, this little thing is pretty cool. You can also use it to basically increase the tension in your other dry land workouts. It is hard to explain; just take a look:

According to their website (here), this device is used by Kikkan Randall.  You can do it outdoors, or, if you have enough space, indoors. However, it is a bit cost-prohibitive at $230 for the system (eek). That's about 1/3 the cost of a low-end SkiErg, though. Honestly, if you went to the hardware store, bought some rope, pulleys, and a couple other odds and ends, you could probably jury-rig something up.

Resistance Bands: Alright, I don't like weight training much. I have the genes for bad joints, so I am super careful about them. However, I do really like the stretchy resistance bands; it is easier to control the weight (resistance) and motion of them. Since they are portable, you can do these outside, if you want. I guess it just depends on how weird you want to look to the neighbors. But, if you take them to your local trails, you can mix them in with a bounding/plyo session. The trees won't tell tales. 

So, don't despair. We have already had some light snow around here, and if it stays cold, I bet the snow making operations will start soon. We might even have a real winter (what a novel idea...). May as well prepare for it. 

Wet & Bored? Try the Training from Hell: THE SLIDEBOARD

So, the weather here in the great Minneapolis Metro has not been conducive to rollerskiing for the past few days. What to do? Two options: cross train, or rest.

I am not going to wax eloquent on the benefits of rest (which I did yesterday). Anyone who is an athlete knows one needs rest every now and again. I am not the best--I have to force myself to do it, because exercise is my stress relief and I am a "do-er;" sitting on my butt drives me bonkers. However, I had to cross train today, because we had wet, cold, and windy. Since some of the wet included a few snowflakes, I am not going to gripe too much. At the same time, all I could think was: OK. Now what?

I am a big-time biker--my main sport. But at this time of year, I don't always have the outside option; I am not a big "let's bike in the rain" person--not even for cyclocross, which I like to do occasionally. I like to stay healthy and wet + cold + windy + not being able to get warm & dry immediately after a workout = me potentially getting sick. Enter my frienemy, The Bike Trainer.

Ugh. 30-50 minutes is about all I am good for. If, like me, you hate to workout indoors, Make it count. Whatever you do, don't do "junk miles"--be they running, biking, or anything else. BUT, if you want more specific training, might I introduce you to....THE SLIDEBOARD?

Yes, friends, the slideboard. This is a cool little thing I learned about from my speed skating buddy, Mel. She took me to the indoor workout area at the John Rose Oval one day, and introduced me to this lovely little torture device. This picture shows the basic idea:

The board is a smooth surface with "bumpers" on each end. You can buy (or make) them in various lengths. You can train either in old socks, specially-made booties, or surgical scrub booties. As the picture shows, you slide back and forth against the bumpers, and it is a leg-and-core-only workout (vs. the Ski Erg--but that's a story for another day). 

All I have to say is it is NOT as easy as it looks. It is meant predominantly for inline & speed skaters, as well as hockey players. If you turn your feet at the wrong angle, you lose your balance. If you don't push off hard enough, you just...stop. Here is a good video of how one can progress. As you see, he starts with a shorter slide (about 6 ft.), then moves to longer (about 8 ft.)The guy leaves both his feet on the board, but when you get really good, you can glide on one foot--not a technique for beginners. I tried. I looked like a penguin attempting flight. 

Your heart rate goes up amazingly quickly, and it takes a while to build up to any sort of time on it. I have to take a LOT of breaks. Mel and I did some plyos, weights, and other conditioning in between. So, you can make it like circuit training, if you have adjustable weights at home, like PowerBlocks (but you can get "off" brands cheaper, though with fewer weight options).

You might be saying "but this is for skaters--I am a skier!" Yes, this is true. But remember what you were told when you were (or are) learning how to skate ski? Glide on one foot for as long as you can. Glide on the flat part of your foot. Keep your balance. "Hop" from one foot to the other (especially on uphills). Yes, kiddies, you can practice all this fun on a slide board, all the while getting a little core workout and your heart rate up. 

They start at about $100 and can run to over $600. You can also find plans online to make your own for under $100--which is what I did. It is not quite finished. I have to drill the holes in the board & put the pegs in my 2x4 bumpers, then cushion them. But after the wet and nasty crap of today, I am very motivated to finish this iron maiden of cross training. Give it a try if you ever get the chance. I guarantee you will be sore as hell afterwards and be cussing it (and perhaps me) a blue streak. Then again, that is what the off season is for, right?

Extolling the Virtues of CAT Skiing

In one of my first posts, I talked about Classical All-Terrain skis, also known as CAT skis. As a reminder, they look like this:

The photo is from their website: http://www.catskier.com/ and doesn't show them mounted with bindings. Unless a store near you carries them (and they are few and far between), online is the best place to buy them. 

Many people will say that the CAT ski is unnecessary--that a person can get as good a workout with pole hiking and still work on their technique. This is where we will agree to disagree. 

The fact of the matter is, though I did not start taking XC skiing more seriously until I was in my late teens/early 20s, I have been XC skiing since I was 7. I started as we all do: on short skis, with basic equipment. I am old enough to be from the 3-pronged toe binding era, if that gives you any idea how long I have been doing this...

I learned to propel myself forward, how to negotiate turns, and how to fall--always a necessary skill. Some downhill skiing in my youth also helped improve my confidence on the hills, taught me how to better turn, as well as to not be afraid of eating snow. By the time I was 17-18, I got into skate skiing, and fell in love with it. Of course, my technique sucked at first, but overall, I took to it like a duck to water, and that is my main ski technique. But I never quit classic skiing.

The beauty of classic skiing is that, with cheap, wide equipment, you can go out in crap conditions and get a workout. You can go out in deep, new snow on fish scales and enjoy un-groomed terrain. You can control your heart rate easier. But, if you want to go fast or do marathons, reality kicks in, literally: you need good technique, and that means proper kick.

Oh, sure: you can use brute force to muscle through a classic event--if you have it. But, as the terrain gets tougher or the event gets longer, if you don't have good technique, it is absolute hell. 

Try as I might, and did for a long time, I could only improve my technique on classic skills so much, even with lots of official and unofficial coaching. I don't know if I just didn't "get" what was being explained, or if it was more how it was being explained. But, I would take what I had heard, try it on my own repeatedly, and still feel like I wasn't as good or efficient as I could be. 

My now-husband--who is from Texas originally, and said would never XC ski--eventually took up skiing a couple years before we got married (I finally talked him into giving it a try--on flats and fish scales at first, of course). Surprise, surprise, he loved it, and got us into a ski club so he could get better coaching than from me, for classic. He joined the classic group, & I went the skate route (of course). 

It wasn't long before he could outdo me on classic skis based on technique. I could go as long as he could, as my base has always been generally better than his, but I was pissed that he could out-pace me. I did some of the classic classes with him and got better, but still felt like he was stronger. Out of a combination of desire to have another outside fall athletic activity and pure desperation, I bought some CAT skis. 

Holy Difference, Batman. 

I used them all fall, mixing CAT skiing with rollerskiing and cycling. When the snow finally fell, of course I started with the skate skiing--easier to do on thin, man-made groomed snow (and that year Mother Nature was not kind to us skiers). When we finally got good base and deep tracks, I condescended to get on the classic skis with my husband. All of a sudden, I wasn't working that hard. My kick was right where it should have been, when it should have been, without my having to think about it. Why was that?

The simple fact of the matter is that if you don't have proper technique on CAT skis, you will go nowhere. No--really. You will literally go nowhere. You will slide on them, but not move forward. My friend Michelle tried them and got so frustrated. This is because she is a runner, and there is that big of a difference between running and XC skiing. She kept wanting to "run" on the CAT skis, and you simply can't do that. So, I learned very quickly how to move so I could move. 

It is better, generally speaking, to have a shorter "glide" phrase on the CAT skis, and mine tends to be a little longer, but I have been working on that, and now my stride is a lot more like my husband's--who also ended up getting a pair, by the way, to better prep for snow. Though he had good technique before, he feels he has gotten even better, thanks to the CAT skis. We now sound like a matched pair of metronomes when we go out together.

So, am I "dissing" pole hiking? Of course not! It is a great--and much cheaper--way to prep for classic XC skiing. All you need are good trail shoes and some old poles. And, can it help you with technique? Yes, it can. But for me, CAT skis solved my problems. As I have been skiing since age 7, of course I probably acquired some bad habits, and my preference for skate skiing likely didn't help. Coaching helped some. Dry land also helped. But the honest truth is that, if it weren't for the CAT skis, I'd still have to think a lot more about my technique. 

I am still a skate-skier at heart, and always do my marathons that way. But, thanks to CAT skis, I am actually considering something like the Seeley Hills Classic--only the 22K to start, of course. However,  a few years ago I would have never even considered a classic-only marathon or half marathon. It just sounded like too much work. It just goes to show you what a difference "getting" proper technique really makes. So, do whatever it takes to do so. You still need good wax and properly flexed skis, of course--but that is a given, in my opinion. Take that out of the equation and, for my money, CAT skis are a sure-thing. 

Braking Down

Let's talk brakes today. Not all rollerskis come with them. Some have them as accessories. The question becomes: are they worth it? It kind of depends on where and how you ski, and the wheels you use.

TYPES OF BRAKES

Pull-up  on the Handle: I get most of my skis from The Rollerski Shop. This is because they have good products at fair prices. Yeah, I know all about how Marwe is supposed to be "the ultimate" rollerski and closest to snow feel, yadda yadda yadda. However, in my experience, any rollerski (RS) that uses RS specific wheels has close-to-snow feel--at least, as close as you will ever get, when you are on asphalt. The Rollerski Shop's brake, new this year, looks like this:

It has no rubber, but as the owner clearly states, it is meant to SLOW you down. And it works at doing so (though not as well with inline wheels, for sure). I had these ancient rollerskis (inline boots mounted to a LONG skate with 3 wheels) that had a similar system, which seems to be the basis for this. The brake is attached to a handle, strapped around your waist. You pull up on the handle, which depresses the metal arch over the wheel. I like it better than the ancient skis, which had a rubber pad the handle pulled on, to get the brake to hit the pavement to stop; it was too close to the ground, and would trip me up going over anything more than small bumps.

Push-back on the Calf Brakes: Powerslide--a speed-skate company based in Germany and relatively new to the rollerski business--has their own brake, similar to others I have seen (V2). It is the "push back your calf" type of set up:

The concept is always the same: push back your calf and depress the rubber brake pad against the wheel to slow down/stop. The problem with these, I think, is that they are dedicated to the manufacturer. They mount to the shaft of the ski in a specific way. However, since shafts are typically a universal width, The Rollerski Shop brake might be more versatile (I am going to play with this later this month). 

I could post more pics etc. But the real question is: do they work? 

ACTUALLY STOPPING?

Well...sort of. The thing is, you just can't stop on a dime with rollerskis, any more than you can do so with inline skates, to be honest. And inline skaters who stop quickly don't have brakes; they are on the super-fast speed skates, and know how to "snowplow," drag a skate, or do a hockey-style stop. 

Brakes are good if you are dealing with steep downhills on which you are trying to control your speed, or you need to slow before getting to an intersection. They are also weighty and sometimes cumbersome, impeding your form a bit, or accidentally engaging when you don't mean them to. 

What Most People Do: It is well for people to learn how to "snowplow" with rollerskis--turning them inwards in a V-shape and going knock-kneed to slow down. When you get advanced, you learn to alternate picking your skis up off the asphalt a bit (while in the V-shape) to slow down. If you watch the start of this video, it is the technique right after "The Parachute." Don't ever try to fall and roll (1st technique)--you simply can't with the freakin' long shafts of rollerskis. And the rest of the video shows techniques you also can't really do with skis. 

When in a Pinch: You can roll right into the grass--but then be prepared to fall, because you decelerate very quickly. Again, it's better than falling on pavement. 

Controlling Speed on Hills: If you are able to, start at the top of a steep hill with one foot in the grass, if the drop-off is not too steep from trail/road to grass--but NEVER in gravel. The foot in the grass (usually the right one) will roll slowly enough to moderate your speed--and you can always just fall into the grass to stop, if needed (which is a lot softer than asphalt...believe me). 

However, if the grassy shoulder is untenable or inconsistent (or maybe has sharp curves you can't see around), just either walk down the hill with skis on (sideways if needed), or take your skis off and walk down the hill. Safety First!

If you ski mostly on flats, brakes are really not necessary, or are needed more if you have a lot of intersections you have to cross and you don't trust cars (which I never do). But, if you do a lot of (more steep) hilly terrain, it might behoove you to get a ski to which you can affix a brake. 

And a word to the wise: ain't nuthin' gonna' help you on wet pavement. If you want to skate in that stuff, you're on your own, pal!

Where Did I Leave Off? Oh Yeah...Wheels, Part 2

It's amazing how one doesn't post for almost a year, once real skiing begins and then transitions into biking season. The spiel on wheels fell apart, since the snow started to fall.

But, since the basics were posted, and it is now "high holy rollerskiing season" (again...), I had better finish it. I mentioned Material, Durometer (think "durable"), Size, and Shape. Here's what it all means:

Size + Shape =: Bigger wheels--especially inline wheels vs. true rollerski wheels--have more "taper"; that is, if you look at their profile head on (front to back), they look like they are "V-ing" at the top and bottom. This is less stable/solid, but makes you work on balance. And, of course, big = fast. These are great for dry days and flat terrain.

However, if your rollerski has no brake, you had really better know how to stop them, or be comfortable rolling off into the grass (and maybe falling down...). I use 100mm for things like the Northshore Inline Marathon--one of the only rollerski marathons in the country. The other is in Grand Marais, MI...today, incidentally. Oh well...maybe next year...

Durometer + Size = An Important Relationship: This is really the most important thing, especially if you are going to use inline wheels on rollerskis. Composition and durometer are intimately linked. That is a given, but since I don't know the breakdown of polyurethane vs. whatever else, I will not go there.

But, I can go into size and its relationship to durometer. If you go too soft, the wheel will break down quickly outside. However, that is more an issue with something like roller hockey, where you do a lot of tight turns and quick stops.

I have found that using a little softer wheel--say, a 77A--gives me a lot less "feedback" (vibration) from the road than a harder wheel. But, were I to use that with a big wheel, I would probably be losing chunks from the wheel left and right, thanks to rocks, twigs, etc. That crap could easily bite into the softer compound.

So, I went to Goodwill, and for $10 bought a lightly used pair of inlines, took the wheels off (78mm with 77A durometer) and gave them a try. Bazinga. I not only got less road chatter, but I lost little speed (averaging 10-12 mph on a steady-pace day, vs. 12-14), and I got a LOT more control--especially on the "big" hills at the local park.

Whereas before, I would have to go down 6% trail hills with one foot in the grass (since I don't always have a brake on my skis), I can "snowplow" these suckers the whole way down, and maintain control. Amazingly enough, they aren't worn to shreds, either. My husband used to aggressive inline at skate parks, and I had him take a look. He said they are fine.

I will say that it looks like the front wears down a little faster than the rear, which doesn't happen with bigger wheels. That's easy enough: rotate the rears to the front and vice versa, when you notice too much wear. My guess is this is from the front-leaning position we skiers use.

So Why Use Inline Wheels on Rollerskis? Basically, I like to go farther and see more in the time I rollerski. I get super bored, seeing the same terrain all the time, and find it ridiculous to have to drive somewhere just to get different scenery (though I will do it to get more and bigger hills, or ski with other people). With rollerski wheels, pushing hard, you will average maybe 10-12 mph (unless you are Matt Liebsch...). But, I can use less energy and get the same (or faster) speed with inline wheels, while working on my balance. And, occasionally I can talk my dad or husband into biking next to me if they want an easy workout (since I am WAY faster than the hubby on rollerskis, and my Dad doesn't use them at all). Give them a try. You just might like them!

Good Places to Buy Wheels:
Inline Warehouse This is my go-to site. Very helpful people who seem intrigued by the use I put to their wheels.
Inline Skates Have never bought from them, but they seem pretty cool.
Adam's Inline This guy is Minneapolis Local--my friend skates for his team, and she rocks, so I'll give him a plug.
Pierce Skate and Ski This is on the opposite end of Minneapolis from me, but I bought my ice speed skates from them, and the guy who heads up the skate department know his s*it. (Ted Petroskey)