Well, it is November 30, and the light snow of October (and Thanksgiving Day) has yielded little hope here in the Twin Cities Metro area of MN. So, the wheels are still rolling, and I can give the first part of the spiel about wheels. Please note this pertains to freestyle skis only, since classic roller skis demand the use of roller ski-specific wheels.
Main issue = Composition: Roller ski wheels are NOT made of the same material as Inline wheels. Roller ski wheels are made of a rubber compound, much like bike or car tires. Even the V2 wheels (which are pneumatic) are rubber. This makes them heavier and generally more durable--and typically slower. Inline wheels are made of varying types of polyurethane. The amalgamation will determine how long an inline wheel lasts--and they still typically don't last as long as roller ski wheels.
Durometer: Related to composition, this is another word for "hardness." Roller ski wheels are pretty much one hardness (unless you go pneumatic, of course). However, inline wheels have a lot more variation. Wheels used indoors are often a bit firmer, because one is on a uniform surface; you want to roll as fast as possible. But, when a person goes outdoors, the change in terrain means you need a mix of durable, yet stable. This means a mid-level durometer. 84A is the standard outdoor wheel. I will talk about this in more depth later.
Size: Generally speaking, the size of a roller ski wheel is around 100mm. This is a little larger than the diameter of a hockey puck. However, inline wheels can be anywhere from about 60-110mm. In fact, inline marathons have rules about how big the wheel can be--only 100mm
Shape: Yes, all wheels are round. What I am talking about is the taper of a wheel--that is, the "sharpness" of the "angle" when you look at a wheel dead-on. Think of a car tire. When you look at it from the front of the car, from left to right it looks almost "flat." There is more surface area contacting the pavement. Comparing a roller ski wheel to an inline wheel, the former looks more like a car tire, and the latter looks more like a bicycle tire. The taper from the "tip" of the wheel to the rim is more pronounced in an inline wheel.
These are the basics. What this all means I will talk about later!
Friday, November 30, 2012
Friday, November 2, 2012
(Pole) Size Matters...
If you cross country ski, you know that it is important to have the right length of pole. And, of course, there is some variation, based on personal preference. This article gives a general guide. According to that guide, I "should" be skating with 145cms. Right... When I am on snow, I prefer a longer pole. I tend to swing my arms higher and really dig into the snow. However, that being said, terrain has something to do with it, too. I can get away with 150cm+ on a flat course, since I have pretty good technique on the snow for V2. But, on hilly courses, shorter is definitely better; I am doing way more V1, and steep hills make using long poles a beast.
Then we have playing on the road. Things are a little different on roller skis, in my experience.
In the first place, there is the issue of wheels vs. snow. If you are skiing on "real" roller ski wheels, you are more likely to emulate real snow conditions. In this case, the "normal" to longer pole length is fine. However, I prefer to use inline hockey wheels most of the off-season, for a number of reasons (which I will enumerate in a later post relative to wheels). This means I am going faster. This also means I want more control.
If you are new to roller skiing, the balance on the wheels--even real roller ski wheels--is a little weird, compared to snow. Hence, I really recommend using a shorter pair of poles. You won't have these long things flailing around, with the potential to get caught in A) your skis or B) a passing cyclist's wheels, a dog's leash, or the eye of an unsuspecting runner. But there are benefits to a shorter pole for me, when I am using my inline/polyurethane wheels.
Since I get going up to speed pretty fast, it starts to outpace my roller ski technique. I said I was good on the SNOW. I never said I was as good on the asphalt. The shorter pole keeps me from getting so much power out of my upper body--and, for a girl, I have a lot of power to be had from said upper body. In addition, this lesser speed + more control means it is a lot easier to do V2 on the asphalt. I may not look like this guy...
...but I look a lot better than I otherwise would, trying to move with longer poles. And, there are times when I need to use a shorter pole; I have occasionally problematic shoulders from a genetic abnormality, so using even normal length poles causes pain. But, using the short poles keeps the tendons from pinching too much, and I can rehab and ski all at the same time.
So, when it comes to working on technique on the asphalt, do one of two things: stick to real roller ski wheels and correct pole length, or if you want to use inline wheels, go with a slightly shorter pole. That's my two cents on the topic.
Then we have playing on the road. Things are a little different on roller skis, in my experience.
In the first place, there is the issue of wheels vs. snow. If you are skiing on "real" roller ski wheels, you are more likely to emulate real snow conditions. In this case, the "normal" to longer pole length is fine. However, I prefer to use inline hockey wheels most of the off-season, for a number of reasons (which I will enumerate in a later post relative to wheels). This means I am going faster. This also means I want more control.
If you are new to roller skiing, the balance on the wheels--even real roller ski wheels--is a little weird, compared to snow. Hence, I really recommend using a shorter pair of poles. You won't have these long things flailing around, with the potential to get caught in A) your skis or B) a passing cyclist's wheels, a dog's leash, or the eye of an unsuspecting runner. But there are benefits to a shorter pole for me, when I am using my inline/polyurethane wheels.
Since I get going up to speed pretty fast, it starts to outpace my roller ski technique. I said I was good on the SNOW. I never said I was as good on the asphalt. The shorter pole keeps me from getting so much power out of my upper body--and, for a girl, I have a lot of power to be had from said upper body. In addition, this lesser speed + more control means it is a lot easier to do V2 on the asphalt. I may not look like this guy...
So, when it comes to working on technique on the asphalt, do one of two things: stick to real roller ski wheels and correct pole length, or if you want to use inline wheels, go with a slightly shorter pole. That's my two cents on the topic.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Road Raving: Advice and a Rant
I don't know about you, but I get pretty tired of using the same trails. Some are short, which leaves the fun of loops or out and backs; and, where I live, some of the trails have some steep-ish hills and mildly dangerous curves. This leaves me with the roads of suburbia as an option. Oh Frabjous Day.
Choose the right wheel. This is partially because of road conditions. The trails are pretty smooth--but wet leaves and pine needles on them aren't; the roads can be anything from buttery to bumpy as hell. And, when you get a mix of everything, you have to find a happy medium. Suggestion: roller ski wheels if you want slow or hard workouts; 78 durometer polyurethane wheels if you want a faster ride (but go with smaller mm wheels for safety & control). I'll post later in depth about wheel experiences.
Might I add sharpen your ferrule tips? Rumor has it there is some sort of tool out there that does it. I just use the sharpening stone I have for my ice speed skates. Digging into any tarmac is pretty easy. But concrete is another matter--even with sharp tips, lots of luck. So, as sharp as possible is always a good idea.
Ski on the right side of the road (going the same direction of traffic). We are to follow the same laws as inline skaters. Ideally, choose low-traffic roads, and/or roads with a BIG shoulder, if ride the roads you must or do.
Of course, WEAR A HELMET. This applies even if you are on trails. I have seen the carnage of inline skates without one (my dad got to direct the ambulance to the bleeding skull fracture; we never did learn if he regained consciousness...). Why people think this can't happen on roller skis, I don't know. But I see too many skiers around here without them. And on the road, we have our friends, the cars.
Ah, yes: The Cars. Good music group. Bad machine to play with as a pseudo-pedestrian. Have I mentioned how drivers think they own the road? Or how they are paying SO much attention while texting, talking, drinking coffee, having a conversation, shaving, putting on make up, etc. etc. etc. ad nauseum? They are just looking out for things like cyclists or roller skiers, right?
The etiquette for roller skiing is to double pole (single file in groups) as a car passes you. On a country road, for sure. Around here...I find it best to wait until the car is damn near on your butt. There is something about the out-flinging of a sharp ski tip that encourages cars to give you a wide berth. If they aren't going to voluntarily pay attention, I will find a way to make them pay attention.
Roads aren't the ideal place to ride, but they can be fun, especially if you are more in the country. If you are stuck with the 'Burbs, choose the roads less traveled. And on any road, try to avoid rush-hour traffic. No exercise is worth your life.
Choose the right wheel. This is partially because of road conditions. The trails are pretty smooth--but wet leaves and pine needles on them aren't; the roads can be anything from buttery to bumpy as hell. And, when you get a mix of everything, you have to find a happy medium. Suggestion: roller ski wheels if you want slow or hard workouts; 78 durometer polyurethane wheels if you want a faster ride (but go with smaller mm wheels for safety & control). I'll post later in depth about wheel experiences.
Might I add sharpen your ferrule tips? Rumor has it there is some sort of tool out there that does it. I just use the sharpening stone I have for my ice speed skates. Digging into any tarmac is pretty easy. But concrete is another matter--even with sharp tips, lots of luck. So, as sharp as possible is always a good idea.
Ski on the right side of the road (going the same direction of traffic). We are to follow the same laws as inline skaters. Ideally, choose low-traffic roads, and/or roads with a BIG shoulder, if ride the roads you must or do.
Of course, WEAR A HELMET. This applies even if you are on trails. I have seen the carnage of inline skates without one (my dad got to direct the ambulance to the bleeding skull fracture; we never did learn if he regained consciousness...). Why people think this can't happen on roller skis, I don't know. But I see too many skiers around here without them. And on the road, we have our friends, the cars.
Ah, yes: The Cars. Good music group. Bad machine to play with as a pseudo-pedestrian. Have I mentioned how drivers think they own the road? Or how they are paying SO much attention while texting, talking, drinking coffee, having a conversation, shaving, putting on make up, etc. etc. etc. ad nauseum? They are just looking out for things like cyclists or roller skiers, right?
The etiquette for roller skiing is to double pole (single file in groups) as a car passes you. On a country road, for sure. Around here...I find it best to wait until the car is damn near on your butt. There is something about the out-flinging of a sharp ski tip that encourages cars to give you a wide berth. If they aren't going to voluntarily pay attention, I will find a way to make them pay attention.
Roads aren't the ideal place to ride, but they can be fun, especially if you are more in the country. If you are stuck with the 'Burbs, choose the roads less traveled. And on any road, try to avoid rush-hour traffic. No exercise is worth your life.
Monday, October 22, 2012
Skis, Skis, and More Skis
It sounds pretty basic, but it would be good to start with the types of roller skis. Granted, nothing will ever be just like skiing on snow--but that's why this is called roller skiing.
Classic Skis: These skis have FAT wheels (40+mm wide) with a small diameter (about 70 mm) . The back one ratchets, to mimic the kick phase of classic cross country skis. They look like this:
The Pros: These skis are safe--they are pretty slow, comparatively speaking. So, leaves, a little moisture, and schmutz don't hold much terror.
The Cons: I don't think they mimic the kick phase very well--you can get away with "shuffling" your feet to get forward movement.
Bottom Line: I am lukewarm about them. If you can get a pair used, and are more classic-oriented, they are worth it, though.
CAT Skis: I know--you are thinking what? I am not talking felines. These are CAT Skis:
They have a flat plastic bottom. The plate atop it has rubber stretchy tube that that allows the plate to slide forward, then snap back into place after shifting weight. The wheels on the front are there to get over obstacles
The Pros: As a person who had technique problems with classic, these things rock. They really helped me fix my form; though I know some people say it's all crap/in my head/whatever. They demand you shift your weight with each stride. If you don't, you go nowhere. And, you can go anywhere on these. Anywhere: grass, dirt, asphalt (not recommended for long skis). They are also extremely safe. You can't go much faster than 4 MPH.
The Cons: They are a tad pricey ($359--not much more than some other roller skis); sometimes the wheel has to be readjusted to roll smoothly; also, if you glide too much, you can snap the band, though there is a 1 year parts warranty--so getting a little lesson is useful. And if you want to try a pair, it is a lot harder to find a set for demonstrations.
Bottom Line: Great for fixing technique and if you live in areas where good roller skiing paths/trails are hard to come by (i.e., rural areas; "Up North")
Skate Skis: Also known as freestyle. These are the "fast skis."
The Pros: These skis are my main training tool. You can double pole, do leg-only drills, and easily change out & play with wheel set-ups. This last part is important if you want to be able to control speed and heart rate--it is kind of the equivalent of messing around with wax jobs.
The Cons: No brakes (though you can add them)--so you should be careful.
Bottom Line: If you are primarily a skater, these are the way to go. You also better wear a helmet.
Combi Skis (See Here): I didn't really want to mention these, but... These are like any combination piece of equipment: they allow you to do both techniques--but not really well. Wheels are wider than skate skis, narrower than classic; a smaller wheel is up front, a bigger one in the rear, and a brake is optional equipment.
Pros, Cons & Bottom Line: I haven't used them. I have had combi snow skis and boots before. My opinion is it is better to have a ski specific to the technique you primarily do. But, if you are strapped for cash and want all possible options, give them a try and let me know how they work.
All Terrain Skis: These are another type of ski I have yet to try. These are the Skate version of CAT Skis. They have big pneumatic (air) tires & can come with brakes:
Pros, Cons & Bottom Line: What can I say, not having used them? I would assume they are slower than normal skate skis, and I know you can go off road and on rough terrain--how well it works, I don't know. Since they are tires with an inner tube, it is probably good to carry a spare tube and patch kit with you for long skis--much like cyclists do. I know the tubes can be a pain in the butt to change--if you have ever had to change one for a stroller (and I have, since I work PT in a bike shop), it is as "simple" (snort) as that. Bring a tire lever, just in case. I think the only manufacturer is V2. Again, if you've tried them, your input is appreciated.
This is a basic entry, for the neophyte roller skier. And, of course, these are my opinions and experiences (or lack thereof). The main thing is to remember is WHERE you ski and HOW you ski. Let that guide you when buying any piece of training equipment. The "normal" classic only or skate only skis are easier to find used, if you are not sure you want to invest a lot of cash, compared to combi, CAT, or All Terrain skis. And please, unless you are CAT skiing, wear a helmet. But that's a post for another day.
Classic Skis: These skis have FAT wheels (40+mm wide) with a small diameter (about 70 mm) . The back one ratchets, to mimic the kick phase of classic cross country skis. They look like this:
The Cons: I don't think they mimic the kick phase very well--you can get away with "shuffling" your feet to get forward movement.
Bottom Line: I am lukewarm about them. If you can get a pair used, and are more classic-oriented, they are worth it, though.
CAT Skis: I know--you are thinking what? I am not talking felines. These are CAT Skis:
They have a flat plastic bottom. The plate atop it has rubber stretchy tube that that allows the plate to slide forward, then snap back into place after shifting weight. The wheels on the front are there to get over obstacles
The Pros: As a person who had technique problems with classic, these things rock. They really helped me fix my form; though I know some people say it's all crap/in my head/whatever. They demand you shift your weight with each stride. If you don't, you go nowhere. And, you can go anywhere on these. Anywhere: grass, dirt, asphalt (not recommended for long skis). They are also extremely safe. You can't go much faster than 4 MPH.
The Cons: They are a tad pricey ($359--not much more than some other roller skis); sometimes the wheel has to be readjusted to roll smoothly; also, if you glide too much, you can snap the band, though there is a 1 year parts warranty--so getting a little lesson is useful. And if you want to try a pair, it is a lot harder to find a set for demonstrations.
Bottom Line: Great for fixing technique and if you live in areas where good roller skiing paths/trails are hard to come by (i.e., rural areas; "Up North")
Skate Skis: Also known as freestyle. These are the "fast skis."
The Cons: No brakes (though you can add them)--so you should be careful.
Bottom Line: If you are primarily a skater, these are the way to go. You also better wear a helmet.
Combi Skis (See Here): I didn't really want to mention these, but... These are like any combination piece of equipment: they allow you to do both techniques--but not really well. Wheels are wider than skate skis, narrower than classic; a smaller wheel is up front, a bigger one in the rear, and a brake is optional equipment.
Pros, Cons & Bottom Line: I haven't used them. I have had combi snow skis and boots before. My opinion is it is better to have a ski specific to the technique you primarily do. But, if you are strapped for cash and want all possible options, give them a try and let me know how they work.
All Terrain Skis: These are another type of ski I have yet to try. These are the Skate version of CAT Skis. They have big pneumatic (air) tires & can come with brakes:
Pros, Cons & Bottom Line: What can I say, not having used them? I would assume they are slower than normal skate skis, and I know you can go off road and on rough terrain--how well it works, I don't know. Since they are tires with an inner tube, it is probably good to carry a spare tube and patch kit with you for long skis--much like cyclists do. I know the tubes can be a pain in the butt to change--if you have ever had to change one for a stroller (and I have, since I work PT in a bike shop), it is as "simple" (snort) as that. Bring a tire lever, just in case. I think the only manufacturer is V2. Again, if you've tried them, your input is appreciated.
This is a basic entry, for the neophyte roller skier. And, of course, these are my opinions and experiences (or lack thereof). The main thing is to remember is WHERE you ski and HOW you ski. Let that guide you when buying any piece of training equipment. The "normal" classic only or skate only skis are easier to find used, if you are not sure you want to invest a lot of cash, compared to combi, CAT, or All Terrain skis. And please, unless you are CAT skiing, wear a helmet. But that's a post for another day.
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Why Write About Rollerskiing?
Roller skiing is very much a niche market, and a little-participated in sport--even here in Minnesota & the Midwest, where many live for the cold. But, it is great prep for cross county skiing, though some may disagree. However, aside from a few training plans and some places to buy equipment, there is not much written about it. This is a problem. Why? Because there is no place to learn about other peoples' experiences with this sport.
If you are like me, you like to cross train. And, you like to experiment--both in training and with your equipment. However, you like to also learn from other peoples' failed experiments. This is where this blog comes in.
I have been roller skiing for about 15 years now; in the past 5, I have done a lot of tinkering with equipment and toying around with various set ups. So, if you are new to roller skiing, want to try something new with your equipment, or just want to laugh at my idiocy: welcome to The Roller Skiing Blog.
If you are like me, you like to cross train. And, you like to experiment--both in training and with your equipment. However, you like to also learn from other peoples' failed experiments. This is where this blog comes in.
I have been roller skiing for about 15 years now; in the past 5, I have done a lot of tinkering with equipment and toying around with various set ups. So, if you are new to roller skiing, want to try something new with your equipment, or just want to laugh at my idiocy: welcome to The Roller Skiing Blog.
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